Day 10

Sunday was spent with family in a pueblito called Quintana, near Burgos. But first we had to get there... About an hour driving, with a few stops. First we stopped at the salt mines, Salinas de Añana. They were originally built by the Romans, who made a good profit off of it. A series of wood pipes took water down from the mountains, and once at the bottom the water sat in pools until it evaporated and left only the salt. The site is partially abandoned now, but it is being restored and now some well-known restaurants have claimed a spot (we saw signs here and there). Salt and other products are sold there too.
Next we passed a river that at one time wiped out a village; we saw the ruins of a house right below the riverbank when we drove by. Kind of eerie... Couldn´t help but think of Atlantis. The whole day I was thinking how fun it would be to do some archaelogical work at the sites we visited. ; )
We also stopped by some magnificent cliffs on either side of the river. Just gorgeous. Covered with forests, tempting to climb or stay and fish. Few sandbanks. We saw lots of fish jumping.
We finally arrived in the little village of Quintana, and first visited Nuria´s (maternal) grandmother in her meticulous little house. There were many flowers outside, and many photos of grandchildren inside. Precious. After a quick tour of the house, we went to the house of one of Nuria´s aunts (3 on her mom´s side).
We had some drinks at a local cafe with everyone, where I met more family members, and then we went back to the house for a BIG lunch. There was white fish (which I loved), ´gulas´ or little white eels (which I didn´t love - I dare you to look it up), clams, mussels, chorizo, and bread to sop up all the wet goodness. The gulas tasted a bit like pasta because they´d been cooked in oil and garlic.
Por fin: the abuela´s homemade flan for dessert. : )
For a bit Nuria, her cousin Alba, and I hung out at the local bar/cafe/small country club (with private pool and tennis court) with some friends. After this Nuria, her parents, her 5 year old cousin Lucia, and I drove a little ways to Frías, a little town famous for it´s ´cascadas´ (waterfalls) and old medieval ´castillo´ (castle).
We followed the streams and little waterfalls throughout the pueblo until we could see it´s source, a waterfall high up on the side of a mountain. Up amidst the mountains you could see caves. We stopped at a picturesque little church (unfortunately not open) tucked away amidst greenery and rocks. It was THE most beautiful sight I´ve ever seen. I want to go back. I know my dad would love it.
: )
We hiked back down and then drove over to the medieval fortress. Beautiful vacation inns and cafes inside the winding streets, flowerboxes in every window. And the air was crisp and clear; perfect.
At the top we could see the whole valley below, and cloud-topped mountains in the distance. Needless to say I took hundreds of pictures. Hope they turned out all right. But every once in a while I just have to say to myself, "This one´s mine. I´m not going to take a picture... only let it stay in my memory, just for me."
We finished up the tour by an ancient Roman stone bridge that used to be monitored by the castle.
For dinner: ´filetes´ (thin steaks), chorizo, more bread, fried egg, and little green peppers (spicy).
The best part was helping with S´mores for dessert. ; ) Apparently marshmallows (and peanut butter) are things found only in American movies, and was quite the novelty. We roasted marshmallows in the backyard over a little grill, and then Nuria and I taught everyone how to smush the chocolate/marshmallow together neatly between cookies. For lack of authentic graham crackers, we used square cookies that tasted basically the same. A little taste of home. Made me miss fall back home with bonfires and hiking and sweaters.
I love you, America.