Wednesday. The second saddest (but still great) day of all.
We had donuts for breakfast, but they weren´t the same as ours. I MISS FRESH DONUTS!
For lunch we were treated to ground beef and eggplant mixed and presented in half of an eggplant rind and topped with cheese. It was beautiful. Kind of what some people do with butternut squash.
Mom, you´ll laugh at this... The funny thing is that, along with oysters and fish, I really don´t like eggplant normally. But I do here. : )
You couldn´t taste the eggplant at all because it took on the flavor of the meat and flavoring, and it was cooked so well it didn´t have the normal stringy texture.
And our meal was, as always, accompanied by some wonderful fresh bread. I also had croquetas, which are fried something filled with cheese and chorizo. Delish.
Watched Michael Phelps compete and the bike races begin, which was just spectacular. We laughed when a Spanish biker broke his bike wheel TWICE. The funniest was the first time when it popped off right as he left the ramp. I love every single American in every sport that appears on the tv. And we´re doing pretty good. : )
((Note: Salt water + this hair = crazy! It´s like taming cotton candy. All for the love of the beach...))
Later we joined a tour of the Casco Viejo, or old upper part of Vitoria. Love how the new and old are side by side. Our tour guide was excellent and told us about local stories, history, and art/architecture.
We got to tour the inside of the Catedral de Santa Maria - you can guess what that means - which is being renovated and refortified after some damage to the structure. As our guide explained it, it´s like a very sick person with many illnesses that has to be brought back to health little by little as they examine each one.
We wore hard hats and walked on raised metal platforms. So cool! We learned they had discovered a crypt underneath the cathedral, and saw pictures of the archaeological work being done. I really want to be an archaeologist! Unfortunately we didn´t see the crypt.
Throughout the city we saw evidence of preparations for the 5-day fiesta going on this weekend, from August 4-9. It´s celebrating the city, complete with local traditions. Wish I would still be here!
One member of our tour was the cutest little boy, Vicente. Every little kid is dressed like a little doll or magazine model. This one had curly blonde hair and was always climbing on things or running around, or whispering to his parents in a failed attempt to stay quiet during the tour
guide´s speeches. We were friends.
After the tour Nuria and I went shopping for a while - really good prices - and then walked home. It was breezy, perfect temperature, and there was a little bit of light left in the sky. And everyone was riding bikes.
I could easily see myself walking home to a little apartment with groceries and a baguette in my hands.
*Romantic sigh*
For dinner we had lomo (pork), fried egg, salad, chopped up fried potato, and bread. And a peach.
I don´t know when it´ll feel normal to eat eggs for breakfast again. Or to eat a meal (that isn´t breakfast) without fresh bread.
Tomorrow I will get on a plane, cross an ocean, and end this lovely escapade in Spain. I will gladly embrace the freedom and essence of being an American at home in my native, English-speaking country.
But... I´m leaving half of my heart here. At least. I´m pretty sure by the time I die I´ll have pieces of me scattered all over the world. Because I also left bits in Mexico and Guatemala and Italy and Germany and Argentina and Canada.
Love to all of you. Besos and see you soon.
Wednesday, August 1, 2012
Day 12
Tuesday we went to Donosti! It´s a beautiful little city by the ocean; we spent the day at the beach. Nuria and I went with 3 of her friends, Arantxa, Maria, and Iñigo. It was supposed to be a much bigger group but some changed their minds at the last minute while we were buying tickets. The bus ride was about an hour and 15 minutes long, passing through beautiful mountains and pueblos. It ended up being the perfect group because there weren´t any other Americans to speak English with... and Nuria has the best friends. : )
We ate bocadillos and any other snacks the moms had packed (we had 1 of ham and cheese and another with chorizo in an omelette, between the amazing fresh bread). We walked, walked, walked til we reached the beach, and found a spot for our towels. It was SO crowded; later found out there was a fiesta (for San Ignacio). We played cards with 2 of Iñigo´s friends, and dipped in the water.
The water was much bluer than the beaches on the East Coast, and clearer too. Where we were the waves were pretty big and it became deep really fast, so we didn´t stay in the water too long.
After a while we walked around the streets facing the water (one area was called La Concha), took pictures and got ice cream.
There was a famous performing arts center right by the water. Learned Donosti is one of the most expensive place to live in Spain. It´s a vacation site, with many homes and hotels for the rich. We stopped in a really nice oyster bar for a drink, since all the regular bars/cafes were so full.
Around 8:30pm we headed to the bus station to wait for our 9:15pm bus. It felt nice to do something fun and spontaneous. The teens here are pretty independent, and know their way around. I love the transportation available everywhere - buses, the Tranvia (local cabel car), bikes. In Vitoria you can walk everywhere.
After our ride home (and a beautiful sunset), Nuria´s dad picked us up from the bus station and drove us home. We had salad, roasted chicken with lemon, and fried potato bits. Yum. Yogurt for dessert.
We ate bocadillos and any other snacks the moms had packed (we had 1 of ham and cheese and another with chorizo in an omelette, between the amazing fresh bread). We walked, walked, walked til we reached the beach, and found a spot for our towels. It was SO crowded; later found out there was a fiesta (for San Ignacio). We played cards with 2 of Iñigo´s friends, and dipped in the water.
The water was much bluer than the beaches on the East Coast, and clearer too. Where we were the waves were pretty big and it became deep really fast, so we didn´t stay in the water too long.
After a while we walked around the streets facing the water (one area was called La Concha), took pictures and got ice cream.
There was a famous performing arts center right by the water. Learned Donosti is one of the most expensive place to live in Spain. It´s a vacation site, with many homes and hotels for the rich. We stopped in a really nice oyster bar for a drink, since all the regular bars/cafes were so full.
Around 8:30pm we headed to the bus station to wait for our 9:15pm bus. It felt nice to do something fun and spontaneous. The teens here are pretty independent, and know their way around. I love the transportation available everywhere - buses, the Tranvia (local cabel car), bikes. In Vitoria you can walk everywhere.
After our ride home (and a beautiful sunset), Nuria´s dad picked us up from the bus station and drove us home. We had salad, roasted chicken with lemon, and fried potato bits. Yum. Yogurt for dessert.
Monday, July 30, 2012
Day 11
Monday we stayed at home for a bit; I mailed some postcards, Nuria´s mom went to the carniceria.
For lunch we ate cooked snowpeas with tomato sauce (delicious) and chicken wings. And bread. I´m loving the everything-freshly-made trend here. I feel healthy. Finished with a stracciatella (choc. bits) yogurt that I probably didn´t need. : )
Then we rode our bikes to the pool (same as before, like a country club), where the man at the entrance let me in for free!! Nuria couldn´t believe it. And neither could I, really.
We met up with a lot of her friends and the American students. We dipped in the pool, until I found out that you have to wear a swim cap to get in all the way. It´s a very clean establishment. ; )
We played cards for a bit, I had an ice cream. Nuria´s mom packed us both PB&J sandwiches - loved it! Never before have I so loved a PB&J sandwich. It was glorious.
Later some of us watched the Olympics (swimming) inside the tv lounge area. I have to say, there was one historic moment there... Before they blew the whistle, an American woman swimmer jumped off the platform. Just her. EVERYone laughed, and couldn´t stop cracking jokes. And guess who was the only American in the room? Yeah. That´s going to be funny for a while.
Nuria and I biked back home around 9pm (still light out), stopping to say goodbye to her friend Leyre, who we weren´t going to see again. For dinner: hamburgers (with ham inside besides the regular) and nachos. Their Doritos are different here. Their everything is different here.
Finished up with some galletas and peanut butter. *sigh of satisfaction*
Tomorrow they´re all planning to take the bus and spend the day at the beach. Woohoo! : )
For lunch we ate cooked snowpeas with tomato sauce (delicious) and chicken wings. And bread. I´m loving the everything-freshly-made trend here. I feel healthy. Finished with a stracciatella (choc. bits) yogurt that I probably didn´t need. : )
Then we rode our bikes to the pool (same as before, like a country club), where the man at the entrance let me in for free!! Nuria couldn´t believe it. And neither could I, really.
We met up with a lot of her friends and the American students. We dipped in the pool, until I found out that you have to wear a swim cap to get in all the way. It´s a very clean establishment. ; )
We played cards for a bit, I had an ice cream. Nuria´s mom packed us both PB&J sandwiches - loved it! Never before have I so loved a PB&J sandwich. It was glorious.
Later some of us watched the Olympics (swimming) inside the tv lounge area. I have to say, there was one historic moment there... Before they blew the whistle, an American woman swimmer jumped off the platform. Just her. EVERYone laughed, and couldn´t stop cracking jokes. And guess who was the only American in the room? Yeah. That´s going to be funny for a while.
Nuria and I biked back home around 9pm (still light out), stopping to say goodbye to her friend Leyre, who we weren´t going to see again. For dinner: hamburgers (with ham inside besides the regular) and nachos. Their Doritos are different here. Their everything is different here.
Finished up with some galletas and peanut butter. *sigh of satisfaction*
Tomorrow they´re all planning to take the bus and spend the day at the beach. Woohoo! : )
Day 10
Sunday was spent with family in a pueblito called Quintana, near Burgos. But first we had to get there... About an hour driving, with a few stops. First we stopped at the salt mines, Salinas de Añana. They were originally built by the Romans, who made a good profit off of it. A series of wood pipes took water down from the mountains, and once at the bottom the water sat in pools until it evaporated and left only the salt. The site is partially abandoned now, but it is being restored and now some well-known restaurants have claimed a spot (we saw signs here and there). Salt and other products are sold there too.
Next we passed a river that at one time wiped out a village; we saw the ruins of a house right below the riverbank when we drove by. Kind of eerie... Couldn´t help but think of Atlantis. The whole day I was thinking how fun it would be to do some archaelogical work at the sites we visited. ; )
We also stopped by some magnificent cliffs on either side of the river. Just gorgeous. Covered with forests, tempting to climb or stay and fish. Few sandbanks. We saw lots of fish jumping.
We finally arrived in the little village of Quintana, and first visited Nuria´s (maternal) grandmother in her meticulous little house. There were many flowers outside, and many photos of grandchildren inside. Precious. After a quick tour of the house, we went to the house of one of Nuria´s aunts (3 on her mom´s side).
We had some drinks at a local cafe with everyone, where I met more family members, and then we went back to the house for a BIG lunch. There was white fish (which I loved), ´gulas´ or little white eels (which I didn´t love - I dare you to look it up), clams, mussels, chorizo, and bread to sop up all the wet goodness. The gulas tasted a bit like pasta because they´d been cooked in oil and garlic.
Por fin: the abuela´s homemade flan for dessert. : )
For a bit Nuria, her cousin Alba, and I hung out at the local bar/cafe/small country club (with private pool and tennis court) with some friends. After this Nuria, her parents, her 5 year old cousin Lucia, and I drove a little ways to Frías, a little town famous for it´s ´cascadas´ (waterfalls) and old medieval ´castillo´ (castle).
We followed the streams and little waterfalls throughout the pueblo until we could see it´s source, a waterfall high up on the side of a mountain. Up amidst the mountains you could see caves. We stopped at a picturesque little church (unfortunately not open) tucked away amidst greenery and rocks. It was THE most beautiful sight I´ve ever seen. I want to go back. I know my dad would love it.
: )
We hiked back down and then drove over to the medieval fortress. Beautiful vacation inns and cafes inside the winding streets, flowerboxes in every window. And the air was crisp and clear; perfect.
At the top we could see the whole valley below, and cloud-topped mountains in the distance. Needless to say I took hundreds of pictures. Hope they turned out all right. But every once in a while I just have to say to myself, "This one´s mine. I´m not going to take a picture... only let it stay in my memory, just for me."
We finished up the tour by an ancient Roman stone bridge that used to be monitored by the castle.
For dinner: ´filetes´ (thin steaks), chorizo, more bread, fried egg, and little green peppers (spicy).
The best part was helping with S´mores for dessert. ; ) Apparently marshmallows (and peanut butter) are things found only in American movies, and was quite the novelty. We roasted marshmallows in the backyard over a little grill, and then Nuria and I taught everyone how to smush the chocolate/marshmallow together neatly between cookies. For lack of authentic graham crackers, we used square cookies that tasted basically the same. A little taste of home. Made me miss fall back home with bonfires and hiking and sweaters.
I love you, America.
Next we passed a river that at one time wiped out a village; we saw the ruins of a house right below the riverbank when we drove by. Kind of eerie... Couldn´t help but think of Atlantis. The whole day I was thinking how fun it would be to do some archaelogical work at the sites we visited. ; )
We also stopped by some magnificent cliffs on either side of the river. Just gorgeous. Covered with forests, tempting to climb or stay and fish. Few sandbanks. We saw lots of fish jumping.
We finally arrived in the little village of Quintana, and first visited Nuria´s (maternal) grandmother in her meticulous little house. There were many flowers outside, and many photos of grandchildren inside. Precious. After a quick tour of the house, we went to the house of one of Nuria´s aunts (3 on her mom´s side).
We had some drinks at a local cafe with everyone, where I met more family members, and then we went back to the house for a BIG lunch. There was white fish (which I loved), ´gulas´ or little white eels (which I didn´t love - I dare you to look it up), clams, mussels, chorizo, and bread to sop up all the wet goodness. The gulas tasted a bit like pasta because they´d been cooked in oil and garlic.
Por fin: the abuela´s homemade flan for dessert. : )
For a bit Nuria, her cousin Alba, and I hung out at the local bar/cafe/small country club (with private pool and tennis court) with some friends. After this Nuria, her parents, her 5 year old cousin Lucia, and I drove a little ways to Frías, a little town famous for it´s ´cascadas´ (waterfalls) and old medieval ´castillo´ (castle).
We followed the streams and little waterfalls throughout the pueblo until we could see it´s source, a waterfall high up on the side of a mountain. Up amidst the mountains you could see caves. We stopped at a picturesque little church (unfortunately not open) tucked away amidst greenery and rocks. It was THE most beautiful sight I´ve ever seen. I want to go back. I know my dad would love it.
: )
We hiked back down and then drove over to the medieval fortress. Beautiful vacation inns and cafes inside the winding streets, flowerboxes in every window. And the air was crisp and clear; perfect.
At the top we could see the whole valley below, and cloud-topped mountains in the distance. Needless to say I took hundreds of pictures. Hope they turned out all right. But every once in a while I just have to say to myself, "This one´s mine. I´m not going to take a picture... only let it stay in my memory, just for me."
We finished up the tour by an ancient Roman stone bridge that used to be monitored by the castle.
For dinner: ´filetes´ (thin steaks), chorizo, more bread, fried egg, and little green peppers (spicy).
The best part was helping with S´mores for dessert. ; ) Apparently marshmallows (and peanut butter) are things found only in American movies, and was quite the novelty. We roasted marshmallows in the backyard over a little grill, and then Nuria and I taught everyone how to smush the chocolate/marshmallow together neatly between cookies. For lack of authentic graham crackers, we used square cookies that tasted basically the same. A little taste of home. Made me miss fall back home with bonfires and hiking and sweaters.
I love you, America.
Saturday, July 28, 2012
Day 9
Saturday was a slow day. Having watched the Olympic Opening Ceremony til 1am, we slept in pretty late.
I ate chocolate muffins with tea and juice, relaxed for a while, caught up on journaling. Played some piano.
For lunch we had paella (yellow rice, peas, mussels, oysters, shrimp, snowpeas, boiled egg) with bread.
I am proud to say that I tried EVERYthing in that dish. Yes, everything. And I liked most everything too.
Paella is typical in Spain for fiestas, and is made with chicken or seafood, depending on the place and the cook. Nuria´s mom is an excellent cook. ; )
Finished with some ice cream. They´re very sweet, always asking if they can get me anything else and saying that the kitchen is always open.
Later we went to the mall - huge - to do some shopping. I got some presents for friends and family (and some leather sandals for me). When we got home we had dinner: salchichas (thin sausage links, not spicy) and an omelette for me (´tortilla de huevo´). And bread, of course. We had fruit salad for dessert. I love how we never skip dessert.
Before bed I gave the parents the gifts I´d brought (typical souvenirs from DC and VA). Tomorrow - visiting relatives in Burgos!
I ate chocolate muffins with tea and juice, relaxed for a while, caught up on journaling. Played some piano.
For lunch we had paella (yellow rice, peas, mussels, oysters, shrimp, snowpeas, boiled egg) with bread.
I am proud to say that I tried EVERYthing in that dish. Yes, everything. And I liked most everything too.
Paella is typical in Spain for fiestas, and is made with chicken or seafood, depending on the place and the cook. Nuria´s mom is an excellent cook. ; )
Finished with some ice cream. They´re very sweet, always asking if they can get me anything else and saying that the kitchen is always open.
Later we went to the mall - huge - to do some shopping. I got some presents for friends and family (and some leather sandals for me). When we got home we had dinner: salchichas (thin sausage links, not spicy) and an omelette for me (´tortilla de huevo´). And bread, of course. We had fruit salad for dessert. I love how we never skip dessert.
Before bed I gave the parents the gifts I´d brought (typical souvenirs from DC and VA). Tomorrow - visiting relatives in Burgos!
Day 8
Friday we went to Bilbao. It took a little less than an hour to drive there, and we arrived around 2pm. We saw the famous Guggenheim Museum (exterior) and the surrounding statues (Puppy, Spider, stacked balls in a fountain). Many beautiful parks and bridges too.
After exploring the streets for a while, we drove to a smaller fishing town by the sea called Getxo. It´s the perfect place to picnic and relax by the ocean. We ate lunch there at Krunch, a chain restaurant with really good typical Spanish food (I had a HUGE burger with a fried egg, cheese, cured ham, and all the toppings, and fries). It was right by the water and all the colorful fishing boats, and even though it rained on and off the cool breeze was very refreshing.
We drove a bit further to see the Puente Bizkaia, a giant ferry-like machine that transports people and cars from one side of a river to the other. One side was traditionally for the rich, and the other side for the poorer working class.
After that we drove to an even smaller fishing village, Plentzia. We stopped for coffee and ice cream at a cafe, and then walked by the beach (big cliffs and rocks).
We finally headed for home, where we ate dinner (breaded chicken, fried egg, and bread) and watched the Olympic Opening Ceremony! In Spanish. I was so very proud to see the United States team. So proud.
After exploring the streets for a while, we drove to a smaller fishing town by the sea called Getxo. It´s the perfect place to picnic and relax by the ocean. We ate lunch there at Krunch, a chain restaurant with really good typical Spanish food (I had a HUGE burger with a fried egg, cheese, cured ham, and all the toppings, and fries). It was right by the water and all the colorful fishing boats, and even though it rained on and off the cool breeze was very refreshing.
We drove a bit further to see the Puente Bizkaia, a giant ferry-like machine that transports people and cars from one side of a river to the other. One side was traditionally for the rich, and the other side for the poorer working class.
After that we drove to an even smaller fishing village, Plentzia. We stopped for coffee and ice cream at a cafe, and then walked by the beach (big cliffs and rocks).
We finally headed for home, where we ate dinner (breaded chicken, fried egg, and bread) and watched the Olympic Opening Ceremony! In Spanish. I was so very proud to see the United States team. So proud.
Casa de Maurice Fromkes
Backing up a bit...
When we visited Segovia, I took a picture of a plaque on a house that marked where an American painter lived in the late 1800s/early 1900s.
Check out the site. I was there!! : )
http://www.minube.com/rincon/casa-de-maurice-fromkes-segovia-a875311
When we visited Segovia, I took a picture of a plaque on a house that marked where an American painter lived in the late 1800s/early 1900s.
Check out the site. I was there!! : )
http://www.minube.com/rincon/casa-de-maurice-fromkes-segovia-a875311
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)